Summer had flown by and I had only made one farm trip, so my colleague and I squeezed one more in for early September, that time of year when back to school and post labor day lull is telling us Summer is culturally over. However, that day ,up in the Black Dirt region of New York, temperatures crept up into the mid nineties along with heavy humidity. Ripe fragrant peaches were piled in baskets alongside apples , mumms, and gigantic pumpkins : lingering fruits of summer with newly arrived abundance of Autumn . Although we are anxious to cuddle up in a sweater with a hot cup of cider, we still have strawberries , sweet corn , tomatoes and the ability to wear sandals! So for now, neither here nor there, let’s just call September, harvest season.
W. Rogowski Farm, was our first stop. The owner of the farm Cheryl, is a renaissance woman of sorts, running not only a farm but also farmers market stalls, a large CSA, a small market store, restaurant, and event space. Having such a large kitchen allows them to turn a lot of produce into everything from pickles, to spreads, dips, and jams.
Cheryl’s family like many others in the region, had immigrated to this part of New York State from Poland, and settled here in the late 19th century buying small parcels of land to grow potatoes, onions, and an array of vegetables in the regions fertile black dirt. Chefs have even made tartare out of the intensely flavored nearly meaty carrots that grow in that soil. So what makes it so rich?
Cheryl told us that back in the age of the dinosaurs the land had been the basin of a glacial lake. When the climate shifted and the glacier melted all forms of matter decayed and ended up at the bottom of the lake, when the lake dried up , rich organic matter was what was left behind, along with many dinosaur bones!
As we meandered down the road to Paffenroth Gardens, past more of that deep dark dirt and gorgeous fields of ragweed , it was hard not to feel astounded by the beauty of the land and feel connected to its rich history.
Alexandar Paffenroth’s family had a similar story to Cheryl’s, long ago his Great-Great-Grandfather purchased several acres and now his farm spreads across nearly 80. For many years he grew only onions, to sell on the commercial market. Until one year, when bad weather ruined his entire crop, it was then he decided to diversify his crops and he found a good market for that diversity at the Union Square Greenmarket.
He was an early adaptor , of growing the different types of produce and heirloom varieties that Chefs wanted. He was at first the only stall at the market with Jerusalem Artichokes, but now everyone grows them. However, his he told me, have been tweaked , so that their shape is less knubby and so they are easier to use for cooking or peeling. The amazing thing about all this unique produce which is given some much care and attention, is some of the most affordable vegetables available at the Union Square Greenmarket. In a sense Paffenroth Gardens is a stand where even the most frugal cook can walk away with purple carrots, a tropea onion, fresh edamame, and heirloom chicories for less than $5. We can only be so lucky to share in the abundance that comes from the fields photographed above, I mean look at that Lacinato kale, it may has well be a tropical shade tree it is so tall !
We ran into Doc’s cidery , the clean crisp cold cider on tap was refreshing but the idea of apple picking in the sweltering late afternoon sun did not. So, we headed back to the city with visions of Autumn swirling through summer’s last sweltering sunlight.
